Authors Note: This column also applies to crocheting.
Have you ever spent hours knitting a sweater only to find out it did not fit? Either it was too small or it ends up being large enough to fit multiples of you in it.
Well, did you check your gauge? Was it correct? Did you check your gauge while you were knitting?
Gauge is very important if you are trying to make something that will fit.
When you are knitting a garment you want to wear, or to give as a gift, you want to make sure your gauge is correct.
The definition of gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch. Usually, you see this written out as so many stitches and rows equals four inches.
Gauge is not a math test, it is not there to annoy you, it is there to help you.
Every knitter is different and gauge is to help make sure the garment fits, instead of having to look for a way to get rid of it.
If you are going to spend hours creating a beautiful garment, why take a chance that it will not be worn? Gauge is the key to being happy with your finished garment.
Some patterns use the finished size of the knitted garment while others use body measurements to help you decide which stitches to follow. In order to tell which type they are using, you knit a gauge swatch. An entire pattern is written around a gauge swatch, so why shouldn’t you check to make sure yours is correct?
A half stitch, more or less, could alter your garment drastically.
Gauge should be a continuous effort and checked as you knit. There are many factors as to why your gauge changes. Was it a stressful day at work? Are the kids driving you up the wall? Have you been knitting for several hours? Since knitting is a form of relaxation, your gauge relaxes, too.
The types of knitting stitches you use can also affect your gauge. The main characteristic of ribbing is to “pull” in your knitting. This gives you more stitches per inch. Cables pull at your knitting, as well. Purl stitches are generally looser than knit stitches.
Projects are created for specific yarns and you may have to substitute the yarn. You need to know if it is suitable for your pattern. Does the gauge of the yarn match what is in the pattern? Do you like knitting with this yarn? Is it fuzzier than you first thought? Creating a gauge swatch gives you an idea of what is going to happen with the finished garment.
How do you measure your gauge swatch? Gauge is truly measured in the middle of your swatch. The first few stitches, cast on and bind off rows are different since you are creating an edge to the fabric. Make your swatch wider and taller than the area you are trying to measure. Gauge should be used to become familiar with the pattern stitches and yarn, knit until you are comfortable with what you are learning.
I once was told you should measure your gauge swatch before and after “finishing.”
Once you have bound off your swatch, toss it gently onto a flat surface. Let it sit there for a few minutes to relax. If it curls up too much, you are allowed to gently pat it flat. It will be a more accurate gauge if you do not pull and stretch your fabric. Stretching, even the teeny-weeny tiniest bit, can throw off your gauge and you will be knitting on the smaller side.
Grab your trusty gauge measurement tool, scrap paper and a trusty calculator. Count the stitches over three to four inches then divide the stitches by the number of inches. This will give you an average gauge. This is more accurate than counting the stitches in an inch. If your gauge turns out to be more stitches per inch than you need, try larger needles; if less, smaller.
Now, you can proceed to the “finishing” of your swatch. This must be done. How else are you going to know when you wash the yarn that it pills or felts or drapes badly?
However you are going to treat your final garment, hand-washing or machine-washing, is how you should treat your swatch. Do not wring or stretch your fabric after you have washed it. This stretches the stitches and we do not want that. Blocking, though a column unto itself, is basically to help the fabric lay flat, not to stretch it.
Let your swatch dry all the way. Do not try to speed up the process, this also distorts the stitches. Be patient, it will dry. Then repeat the measuring steps above.
If you do your homework, a gauge swatch, you will enjoy those hours, days, weeks or years it took to knit that garment and be able to wear your masterpiece in the end.
Danielle can be contacted by e-mail at wovenpixel@yahoo.com. Please visit my blog at wovenpixel.blogspot.com or find me on ravelry.com as wovenpixel. I enjoy discussing my yarn habit, sharing local and Internet resources and meeting fellow yarnsters.
